February in Cologne is all about Karneval (Carnival) and its Alaaf all day long! Listen, I’m going to be straight with you: Cologne Carnival (Karneval) is absolute madness. We’re talking an entire city transforming into a week-long costume party where normal social rules evaporate, alcohol flows like water, and grown adults willingly stand in freezing February weather throwing candy at each other.

And it’s incredible.

My first Karneval was quite an experience! It felt like Halloween in February under grey skies and lots of rain but with such colorful floats, costumes, beer and candy!

This isn’t some quaint folk festival. This is millions of people descending on Cologne for what locals call the “fifth season.” The streets become one massive party, traditional music blares from every bar, and people take time off work because after all Germany is the face of work-life balance and what says work-life balance like a carnival of colorfully costumed, merry individuals from all works of life and race sharing candy, wurst and beer!

But here’s the thing: Carnival can either be the best experience of your life or a confusing, overwhelming disaster, depending on how prepared you are. Show up without a costume? You’ll stick out like a sore thumb. Don’t know the traditions? You’ll miss half of what makes it special. Stand in the wrong spot for the parade? You’ll see nothing but the backs of people’s heads for four hours.

This guide will help you navigate Karneval like someone who actually knows what they’re doing. We’ll cover the weird traditions (yes, women really do cut men’s ties), the best days to visit, how to not lose your mind (or your wallet) in the crowds, and most importantly, how to have an amazing time at one of Europe’s wildest celebrations.

Fair warning: this is not a sober, civilized event. If you’re looking for a nice, calm cultural experience, go literally any other week of the year. But if you want to see what happens when an entire German city says “screw it” and parties for a week straight, keep reading.

What is Weiberfastnacht and Why Women Cut Men’s Ties

The Basics

Carnival in Germany goes way back to the Middle Ages, and the whole thing is basically one giant party before everyone has to behave themselves during Lent. The word “Karneval” comes from Latin “carne vale,” which means “without meat” (or “farewell to meat” if you’re being poetic about it). Think of it as Germany’s version of Mardi Gras: eat, drink, be ridiculous, because fasting season is coming.

The timing works out to 52 days before Easter, and it all wraps up just before Ash Wednesday when everyone’s supposed to get serious and spiritual again. But before that? Total chaos.

Carnival season officially starts much earlier, on November 11th at 11:11 am. At this time, people celebrate the beginning of what is often referred to as the “fifth” (Carnival) season. The Monday following Women’s Carnival is called Rosenmontag or Rose Monday. This day marks the highlight of Carnival season, with 11:11 a.m. as the official kick-off time for popular parades. No parade is larger or more colorful than in Cologne.

Here’s where it gets interesting: Germany doesn’t just have one Carnival. Different regions celebrate completely differently. The Rhineland (Cologne, Düsseldorf, Mainz) calls it Karneval and goes absolutely wild with massive parades and political satire. Southern Germany calls it Fasching and does their own thing. Baden Württemberg calls it Fastenacht and has yet another take on it. Each version has its own history, traditions, and local quirks, but they all share one thing: they’re all completely fun and slightly unhinged.

In the big Rhine cities like Cologne, Mainz, and Düsseldorf, the lord mayor hands over the actual keys to City Hall to women, officially giving them control for the day. It’s not just symbolic theater either. This whole tradition started back in 1824 when a group of laundry women in Bonn-Beuel got completely fed up. Their husbands were off partying at Carnival in nearby Cologne while the women were stuck at home scrubbing their dirty shirts. So these women said “screw this,” formed the “Beuel Ladies’ Committee,” and stormed the town hall to take over the government for the day. And somehow, 200 years later, we’re still doing it. That’s the origin story of why women cut men’s ties and run wild every Carnival Thursday.

The Tie-Cutting Tradition

Here’s where it gets weird (and fun): women roam the streets with scissors, cutting off men’s ties.

Why? It’s symbolic. The tie represents male authority and professionalism. Cutting it off is a playful way of saying “your power means nothing today.” It’s all in good fun, and guys know it’s coming. In fact, most men who work in offices wear old, cheap ties on Weiberfastnacht specifically so they can get cut.

What actually happens:

• Women (usually in groups, often quite drunk) approach men wearing ties
• They ask permission (usually) with something like “Darf ich?” (May I?)
• They snip off the bottom half of the tie with scissors
• The man gets a kiss on the cheek in return (it’s tradition)
• Everyone laughs, the man pretends to be scandalized, life goes on

What to Wear on Weiberfastnacht

For women:

• Many dress as stereotypical “authority figures” to mock the system: cops, bosses, politicians
• Others go full fantasy: witches, pirates, animals
• Bring scissors (small ones, not kitchen shears)
• Comfortable shoes because you’ll be standing and walking for hours

Where to Be

Best spots for Weiberfastnacht:

• Alter Markt and Heumarkt: These squares in the Old Town are the epicenter. Packed, loud, chaotic, amazing.
• Zülpicher Straße: University district, younger crowd, cheaper drinks
• Any brauhaus (brewhouse): Traditional beer halls are full of locals celebrating

Places to avoid:

• Hauptbahnhof area (train station): Overcrowded with confused tourists
• Main shopping streets: Stores are closed and it’s just bottlenecked crowds

What NOT to Wear

• Nazi uniforms or anything fascist: Obviously. This will get you arrested, not just dirty looks.
• Blackface or anything racially insensitive: Don’t be that person.
• Native American “costumes”: Used to be common, now considered offensive.
• Religious mockery: Dressing as a nun in a sexual way, etc. Poor taste.
• Over-the-top sexy costumes: This isn’t Halloween in Vegas. Carnival is family-friendly during the day.

Where to Get Costumes

Buy:

• Deiters: Huge costume chain in Germany, locations throughout Cologne
• Party shops: Any “Party” store will have Carnival sections in January-February
• Department stores: Kaufhof, Karstadt have costume sections
• Online: Amazon.de delivers quickly if you plan ahead

Rent:

• Costume rental shops: More elaborate, better quality
• Around €50-100 for the week
• Must reserve in advance (January at the latest)
• Good for group themes

Weather protection:

• Rain is common in February
• Either make your costume waterproof or bring a poncho
• Face paint will run, plan for touch-ups

Safety Tips When Half the City Is Hammered

 The Drunk Reality

Let’s not sugarcoat this: people are wasted. Not tipsy, not “had a few drinks”—properly drunk. By noon on Rose Monday, a significant portion of the crowd has been drinking since 8am. By evening, it’s even worse.

 Alcohol and Drinking

What’s normal:

• Drinking in public is legal in Germany
• People bring beer from home and drink on the street
• Bars start serving at 8-9am during Carnival
• Kölsch flows continuously

Pickpockets and Theft

Carnival is prime pickpocket season. Massive crowds + drunk people = easy targets.

Common tactics:

• Bumping into you while an accomplice grabs your stuff
• “Accidental” spills that distract while they rob you
• Groups creating chaos while one person picks pockets
• Targeting people in porta-potty lines (you’re distracted)

How to protect yourself:

• Money belt or hidden pouch: Under your costume, against your body
• Minimal cash: Only bring what you need for the day
• Leave valuables at hotel: Passport, extra cards, expensive jewelry
• Front pockets only: Back pockets are too easy
• Zipped bags: Cross-body bags with zippers, not open totes
• Keep phone in front pocket: Not in a bag
• Split money: Don’t keep it all in one place

Harassment and Unwanted Contact

The “Bützje” kissing tradition can create gray areas:

What’s acceptable:

• Cheek kisses as greetings among friends and friendly strangers
• Asking before kissing someone
• Accepting a polite “no thanks”

What’s not acceptable:

• Groping or unwanted touching (Carnival is NOT an excuse)
• Persistent advances after someone says no
• Using the tradition as cover for harassment

If someone makes you uncomfortable:

• Say “Nein” (no) firmly
• Move away quickly
• Find a group or bar staff
• Don’t worry about being rude—your safety matters

Reporting:

• Police presence is high during Carnival
• They’re in fluorescent vests and easy to spot
• Don’t hesitate to report serious issues
• Emergency number: 110
• Emergency (Police, Fire, Ambulance): 110

If You Can Only Visit One Day

Choose Rose Monday (February 16) if:

• You want the full experience
• You don’t mind massive crowds
• You want to see the parade
• You can handle chaos
• This is your only chance to see Carnival

Best Day for Different Types of Visitors

Families with kids:

• Sunday (February 15): Smaller local parades, family-friendly, less drunk chaos
• Rose Monday (February 16) morning only: See some parade then leave before evening

Young people/party crowd:

• Weiberfastnacht (Thursday, February 12): Party kickoff
• Rose Monday (February 16): Full experience
• Saturday night (February 14): Best bar/club scene (and Valentine’s Day chaos)

Couples:

• Friday (February 13): Romantic(ish) bar hopping
• Sunday (February 15): Neighborhood strolls with less chaos
• Saturday (February 14): If you want the most memorable Valentine’s Day ever (Carnival trumps romance here)

Culture enthusiasts:

• Rose Monday (February 16): The political satire floats are incredible
• Multiple days: See how traditions evolve through the week

First-timers:

• Rose Monday (February 16): Go big or go home
• Just commit: You need to see the parade to understand what Carnival is

Locals watching/authentic experience:

• Weiberfastnacht (Thursday, February 12): See how Cologne celebrates
• Tuesday evening (February 17): Die-hard locals only

H3: How Long to Stay

One day:

• Fly in for Rose Monday, leave Tuesday
• Exhausting but doable
• You’ll see the main event

Long weekend (3-4 days):

• Arrive Thursday or Friday
• Experience Weiberfastnacht
• Recover a bit
• See Rose Monday parade
• Leave Tuesday
• This is ideal

Full week:

• Only if you’re hardcore
• You’ll be exhausted
• Most hotels require minimum 5-night stays during Carnival anyway

Hotel Booking Strategy

If you’re going:

• Book 6-12 months in advance (not kidding)
• Expect to pay 3-5x normal rates
• Most require 3-5 night minimum stays
• Book cancellable if possible (in case you chicken out)

Location tips:

• Old Town (Altstadt): Most expensive, best location, very loud
• Belgian Quarter: Slightly cheaper, good neighborhood vibes
• Deutz (right bank): Cheaper, easy parade access, quieter
• Near train station: Convenient but chaotic

Hotels I would recommend as a former local:

NH Collection Koln MediaPark,

https://booking.stay22.com/ijetravels/LVVpm5JTvD

Leonardo Royal Hotel Cologne Bonn Airport

https://www.booking.com/Share-EMsROF

Moxy Cologne Bonn Airport

https://www.booking.com/Share-GNN3MO

Money-Saving Tips

Avoid peak nights:

• Thursday and Monday night hotels are most expensive
• Stay Friday-Sunday only if you’re flexible
• Day trip from Düsseldorf or Bonn (30 min by train)

Drink strategically:

• Buy beer at supermarkets and pre-game
• Public drinking is legal
• One Kölsch in a bar: €2.50
• Six-pack from Rewe: €5

Food:

• Eat before you go out
• Street food is cheaper than restaurants
• Bring snacks for parade day
• Supermarkets for supplies

Cologne Carnival is not for everyone. It’s loud, crowded, chaotic, cold, and occasionally overwhelming. You’ll be tired, possibly hungover, and your costume will smell like beer and street food.

And you’ll have stories you’ll tell for years.

The key is going in prepared. Bring a costume (any costume), pick your days wisely based on your tolerance for crowds, protect your valuables, pace yourself with alcohol, and embrace the weirdness. Don’t try to control the experience—just roll with it.

Rose Monday is the main event, but Weiberfastnacht is when you see locals celebrating their traditions. Saturday is best for bar hopping (and happens to be Valentine’s Day, which adds a whole other layer of chaos). Sunday is family-friendly. Tuesday is for die-hards. Pick what works for you.

Most importantly: don’t be the person standing there in normal clothes looking confused. Get a costume, grab a Kölsch, learn the words to “Viva Colonia,” and throw yourself into it.

Kölle Alaaf! (That’s “Cologne forever!” in the local dialect—you’ll hear it 8,000 times.)